I believe spontaneity is essential when traveling. In my opinion, no trip should follow an itinerary to a T. Which is why I was excited to add a last-minute stop at Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area to the beginning of my trip for my upcoming article on Wyoming’s Must-See-Museums. (Coming soon to Northwest Travel & Life). I’m so glad I did as my visit exceeded my expectations in so many ways!
Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area covers over 120,000 acres with the main section being Bighorn Lake that cuts through the canyon for 71 miles. The lake was created by Yellowtail Dam, which is located at the northern end of the canyon, in the late 1960’s. The sheer canyon walls plunge down from the rocky landscape above to depths that vary from 1,000 to 2,500 feet. Boaters can access almost all of the canyon on the lake. Motorists can enter just a smidge of the recreation area at the northern from Fort Smith, Montana, but to truly explore the wealth of this area, start your journey in Lovell, Wyoming entering from the south.
Here are some of the pleasant surprises I experienced while traveling through the southern end.
Easy Access
I knew that the canyon and lake were immense, but what I did not realize was how much of the recreation area I could explore in a vehicle. I spent a few glorious hours making my way along Highway 37, or Park Road, that leads into the area affording me sweeping views of the rugged landscape at the top of the canyon, as well giving me a birds-eye view of the waters below from Devil Canyon Overlook. There are several trails that branch off from the road as well as two boat launches, small campgrounds, and the remnants of historic ranches.
Diverse Landscape
Of course, I was expecting to get a glimpse of the giant canyon and the waters of Bighorn Lake on my visit. What I did not expect was how varied the land was above the canyon. Tall sandstone cliffs and red rock towers flow down into vast fields of sagebrush. A wide variety of birds take advantage of this terrain. Golden eagles soar above the canyon walls and white-throated swifts zoom through catching insects on the wing while lazuli buntings and canyon wrens flit among the branches of ponderosa pine and mountain mahogany.
Wild Things
While I was aware that the Pryor Mountains Wild Horse Range overflows into the recreation area from the western side, I certainly did not expect to actually see any wild horses as there are currently around 120 horses spread out over the 38,000-acre range. But lo and behold, there they were. Three majestic mustangs, two adults and one foal, standing just beside the road. This wonderous sighting made the entire trip worth it. I’ve seen countless horses in my lifetime, but knowing these were wild creatures gave me quite a thrill. In the time it took me to reach the end of the road and drive back past the same location, the horses had vanished.
Going Home
The final surprise I had at Bighorn Canyon was how quickly I reentered Montana from the southern side. I knew the recreation area spanned both Wyoming and Montana, but I had assumed the boundary was deep within the canyon and not accessible to me as I explored by car. I was pleasantly surprised to cross back into my home state very soon after passing through the southern boundary. Wyoming is nice, but a smile came to my face when I realized I was “home,” if only for a short time.
Insider Tips
I have two insider tips I’d like to share for when you visit Bighorn Canyon Recreation Area.
- Make a stop Cal S. Taggart Bighorn Canyon Visitor Center in Lovell, Wyoming if you’re entering from the south. The ranger was very helpful sharing information on road conditions and recommending places to stop along the road. Be sure to also pick up a map while you’re there. Despite being a part of the National Park Service, there is no entrance fee and no gate at the official entrance. There is a visitor center in Fort Smith, Montana on the northern end, but I was told it is often closed due to staffing shortages.
- I highly recommend booking a scenic boat tour of the canyon through Hidden Treasure Charters. I took their 2-hour morning cruise which embarks from Horseshoe Bend Marina and got a stellar up-close view of the canyon that I never would have experienced on my own, seeing as I don’t have a boat. Captain Michelle did an amazing job of explaining the history and geology of the canyon, and stopped the boat for several minutes while we watched a herd of bighorn sheep navigate the steep canyon walls.
